The Striped Pants: From the Devil’s Fabric to the Rockers' Icon
The Striped Pants: From the Devil’s Fabric to the Rockers' Icon
Striped pants have transcended centuries, worn by diverse social classes and in different eras, each time embodying unique meanings. From the Middle Ages, where they symbolized curse and exclusion, to their adoption by rock icons in the 1970s, these garments have evolved into more than just a pattern. They stand as a symbol of rebellion, self-expression, and transgression.
Sinister Beginnings: A Motif of Social Transgression
In the Middle Ages, striped pants were far from a mere aesthetic choice—they were a social stigma. The pattern was associated with transgression, dishonesty, and deviation from social order. Those who donned these fabrics were often seen as outcasts: prostitutes, jesters, lepers, as well as servants and others of lower standing. Clergy, for instance, were expressly forbidden from wearing striped clothing. Even in the animal kingdom, creatures with striped fur were believed to embody human vices: deceit, theft, and greed.
It wasn’t until the 15th century that perceptions of striped pants began to shift. Horizontal stripes, once emblematic of social subordination, were gradually supplanted by vertical ones, especially among young Italian nobles. Vertical stripes became a distinctive mark of high social standing, while horizontal stripes remained tied to servitude.
Striped Pants and Revolutionary Symbolism
The evolution of striped pants continued with changing fashions and the tides of revolution. In the 18th century, stripes gained unexpected popularity as revolutionaries adopted them as a symbol of struggle and liberty. In the United States, stripes were quickly recognized as markers of insurgency, and the French Revolution followed suit, with the iconic striped pants of the sans-culottes becoming synonymous with defiance.
By the 19th century, stripes had taken on a definitive role as symbols of resistance. In the United States, the pattern entered the wardrobes of revolutionaries, while in France, it became a hallmark of defiance. During revolutionary movements, striped pants served as acts of rebellion—breaking dress codes and asserting new identities.
The 1970s: The Revival of Striped Pants trough the Music
It wasn’t until the 1970s that stripes took on a new life, this time within the worlds of rock and hippie culture. Hippies embraced the revolutionary and marginal symbolism of striped pants, transforming them into emblems of freedom, individuality, and rebellion—ideals that resonated with the punk and rock movements. Striped pants made a bold comeback on stage, worn by rock icons like Mick Jagger or Jimi Hendrix.
Jimi Hendrix & Mick Jagger
Rock thrived on rebellion, and striped pants became a visual expression of this yearning for transgression. Around this time, brands like Levi’s and Lee, previously known for their classic styles, began producing striped pants, appealing to younger generations eager for novelty and style. Striped pants thus became a dual symbol of subversion and elegance, adopted by artists to signify their break from conventional norms.
A Reversed Symbolism: Stripes as a Style Statement
What was once a marker of marginalization has now become a staple of high fashion. Striped pants are no longer confined to outcasts but are worn by celebrities, musicians, and designers. Jazz and rock musicians, in particular, continue to embrace the motif, paying homage to the freedom it represents.
In 1984, during the Nîmes Festival, trumpeter Miles Davis took the stage wearing striped pants—a symbolic gesture marking the ultimate appropriation of the motif. Through history, stripes have evolved into a powerful symbol of personal affirmation and a rebellious lifestyle.
From transgression to assertion, from infamy to revolt, striped pants embody the evolving relationship between fashion and social codes. While in the Middle Ages they heralded doom for their wearers, today they represent defiance and freedom. Much like rock music itself, they are a cry for liberty in a constantly changing world.
